Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
